Button-sewing machine.



PATENTED DEC. l5, 1903.

1o SHEETS-s113311.

W -WLL (7072/7, WIM/"Z y 4MM J. W. DARLEY, JR.. BUTTON SBWINGMAGHINE.APPLICATION FILED MAR128, 1903.

N0 MODEL.

k o ofc no w s om No. 747,048. PATENTED'DEG. 15, 1903.

J. W. DARLEY, JR. i BUTTON SEWING MACHINE. l

APPLIUATI'ON FILED MAR. 28. 1903.

NO MODEL, 10 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

1IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIH! f nWarZegJz No. 747,048. v A y PATBNTED DEC. 15, 19.03.

- Y J. W. DARLEY, JB. y

. BUTTON SEWING MACHINE.'

v APPLIUAT'ION FILED MAR. za. 190s.

No nonni.. 1o SHEETS-SHEET a.

No. 747,048.4 PATENTBD'DBC. 15,1903.l

J. W. DARLBY, JR. BUTTON SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR, za, 1903.

415T() MODEL. '10 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

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BUTTON SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED* MAR. 28. 1903.

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No MODEL.

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No. 747,048. PATENTED DEG'. l5, 1903.

J. W. DARLEY, JE. BUTTON SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIGATION FILED MAR. 2E. 1903. N0 MODEL.

10 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

` 1 ,6 www s It JoizzWlarlyf No. 747,648. PATENT-BD DEG. 15, 190s.

J. W. DARLEY, JB. BUTTON SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION PLBD MAR.28.1903.

N0 MODEL. 10 SHBBTSP-SHEETY.

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APPLICATION FILED MAR. 28, 1903.

10 SHEETS-SHEET 8.

N0 MODEL.

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No. 747,048. PATBNTED DBG. 15, 1903. J. W. DARLEY, JR. BUTTON SEWINGMACHINE.

APPLIDATIO FILED MAAR. 2B, 1903. R0 MODEL. 10 SHEETS-SHEET 9.

y John WDaTZegJT.

No. 747,048. PATENTED DEG. 15, 1903.

J. W. DARLEY, JR, Y BUTTON SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MR. 28. 1903.

NO MODEL. Y l0 SHEETS-SHEET 10.

57 illll ,f4 4@ @Ng 14 15 ma Z5] Z0 Jofmwmqg m" 190- 4MM PatentedDecember 15, 1903.

PaTnNT @tripa Jol-1N w. DARLEY, JR., oFjBALTIMoRE, MARYLAND.

BUTTON-SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 747,048, dated December15, 19103.

Application led March 28. 1903. Serial No. 149,996. (No model.)

the art to which it appertains to make andV use the same. v

My invention relates to machines for sewing buttons on garments or otherfabrics; and the object of my invention is to provide a machine whichwill sew buttons on garments in exact imitation of hand-sewing-- namely,with the buttons separated from the garments by a neck of thread, aroundwhich neck another thread is Wrapped, thus securing the buttons to thegarments at a distance therefromf Such a machine has hitherto never beenmade, so far as I am aware.

Hitherto in all button-sewing machines the button hasY been sewed onclose to the garment, making it difficult to button the garments,causing undue strain uponthe buttons,and wearing out thebuttonholesquickly. These objections have prevented such inachines fromgoing into general use, and they are now used only on the cheaper kindsof garments. By my invention, however, these objections are all removedand the buttons can be sewed on garments with great speed and in fullyas good a manner as is accomplished by hand-sewing.

With the objects above stated in view my invention consists in theconstruction and combinations of parts, as hereinafter described andclaimed.

In the accompanying drawings, which illustrate one embodiment of myinvention, Figure l is a front elevation of a complete machine forsewing buttons on garments. Fig. l is a side view of the treadleattachment. Fig. 2 is an end View of the saine from the needle en d.Fig. 3 is an end view from the opposite or power end. Fig. 4 is a bottomplan view. Fig. 5 is an enlarged View of the index-shaft of the windingmechanism and related parts. Fig. 6 is a view of the same in a differentposition, showing the parts in the positions they occupy as the windingof the neck of the button is completed. Fig. 7 is an end view of theparts shown in Figs. 5 and 6, some of the parts being shown in sectionand others removed. Fig. 8 is a perspective view of the Winderindex-lever.` Fig. 9 is a plan view of the lwi-nder index-lever,Winder-stop and related parts. Fig. 10 is a front view of the cam andswitch looking from the front of the machine. Fig. 11 is a similar viewlooking 'from the back of the machine. Fig. 12 is a side view of theoperating mechanism joined to the left-hand treadle of Fig. 1 asarranged `when a four-hole button is used. Fig. 13 shows the rodattached to the right-hand `treadle of Fig. l and the parts connectedthereto in the position they assume after :the machine is started. Fig.14 is a plan View, partly in section and with parts omitted, ofthebutton chuck and guard. Fig. l5 is a plan view, partly in section, ofthe button-chuck, the section being taken on the line 15.15 ot' 2. Fig.16 is a bottom plan view of the index-pan for the sewing mechanism,showing also the means for dividing the stitches equally between the twopairs of holes when a four-hole button is used. Fig. 17 is across-section ot' the same on the line 17 17 of Fig. 16. Fig. 18 is anenlarged end View, looking from the power end, showing the presser-bardown,

the garment held thereby, and the button partially sewed on; and Fig. 19is a similar view, partly in section, showing the presserbar raised.

My improved machine can be run by treadle -or by power. I prefer thelatter, however, and have shown it in the particular form of `myinvention illustrated inthe drawings. My machine operates equally wellwith either two-hole or four-hole buttons, and if the latter are usedthe machine automatically divides the number of stitches into two equalparts and causes one half of said stitches to pass through one pair ofholes and the other half through the other pair of holes. By means of anadjustable index the desired number of stitches may be caused to passthrough the holes of the button whether of the two-hole or four-holevariety. Similarly the winding mechanism for winding thread around theneck of thread securing the button to the garment may be adjusted togive any desired number of turns around the thread-neck, or it may beadjusted so that it will not wind any thread about the neckthread whenthis is desired, as in the sewing of buttons on the ends ofcoat-sleeves. Furthermore, the mechanism is so arranged that when it isonce properly adjusted at the start the operator cannot make a mistake.If the operator attempts, for example, to operate the treadles' beforethe operation of attaching the previous button is completed, he isunable to do so before the completion of the previous operation ofsewing and winding. All thattheoperatorhas todois to putthegarment underthe presser foot or bar, feed the buttons, and operate the treadles atintervals. The machine does the rest.

In carrying out my invention I make use of the well-knownvibrating-needle type of sewing-machine already in limited use forsewing on buttons. This is a well-known type, and the means foroperating the needle, the shuttle, and related parts, and for adjustingthe throw of the needle need not be described, as they are well known.

Referring to Fig. 1, a designates a'powershaft having on it a pulley b,which vby means of a cord or belt c continuously drives a pulley d,loosely mounted on the shaft e. This shaft is mounted in bearingsf g h(see Fig. 4) on the underside of the machine,and shoulders on either endthereof keep it in position and prevent it from moving longitudinally.This shaft has two cranked portions lo Z, which are arranged ninetydegrees apart, so that a deadcenteris alwaysavoided. From these crankedportions run' links (not shown) to similar cranked portions on the shaftwhich drives the needle. (Not shown.) This driving-shaft for the needlecarries a hand-wheel m, (see Fig. 1,) used in the adjustment of themachine before starting it up.

Before the machine is started the garment or fabric should be placedbeneath the presserbar, the button-chuck opened, the button put inposition, and the button-chuck closed. This is accomplished in thefollowing manner, reference being made especially to Figs. 1, 2, 18, and19:' The left-hand treadle n is moved down, carrying with it the rod o,which is attached thereto. This rod draws down with it the rod p, thetwo rods being adjustably secured together by the coupling q andset-screws r. The downward movement of the rod p causes a similarmovement of the rod s, a coupling securing these two rods together. Thecoupling is secured to the rod s by the set-screw u, and the rod p issecured to the coupling t by a pin o, held in place by a Cotter-pin w.The upper end of the rod s is loosely secured to the end of a leverwhich is pivoted at y in the needle end of the gooseneck 2. The otherend of the lever x loosely engages the under side of a projection ,e onthe sliding bar 1, which bar, under the inuence of gravity and a spring,(not shown,)

tends to assume the position shown in Fig. 18, from which position it ismoved intothe position shown in Fig. 19 when the treadle n is operated.This sliding bar 1 has pivoted to it the link 3, which link at timesacts merely as a link and at other times as a lever. This link 3 isarranged to play up and down in a slot 4 in the casting 5, which carriesthe winding mechanism. This casting 5 is pivoted on a pin 6 by means oftwo ears 7. (See Fig. 14.) The pin 6 passes through a centrally-slottedprojection 8, extending upwardly from a plate 9, supported on thebed-plate of the machine.

Loosely attached to the bar or lever3 by the pin 10 is an upright bar1l, provided with a screw-thread 12 at its lower end, upon which screwsa head 13 for the purpose of adjusting the length of the upward movementof the presser-bar 14, which is slotted at 15 for the passage of theneedle and neck of thread after the button is attached to fabric. Thepresserlever 14 is pivoted on the pin 6 by means'of two perforated ears16 and 17. Long washers 18 and 19 are placed within said ears and serveto keep the parts mounted on the pin 6 in their proper relativeposition, while permitting of a free motion of the presser-bar 14. Aspring 20, mounted in seats in the plate 9 and the presser-lever 14,normally tends to raise the presser-lever, which it does whenever thebar V11 is raised. The bar 11 carries a second pin 21 a slight distancebelow the pin 10. When the bar 1 is lifted, carrying with it the bar 3,the bar 11 is also lifted by the action of the pin 10 and the spring 2Ountil the pin 21 comes in contact with the lower end of the screwv 31.An adjusting-screw 31 (see Fig. 14) passes down through the plate 5 inproximity to theslot 4 and regulates the extent of upward movement ofthe pin 21 and bar 11, this adjustment being an additional adjustment tothat obtained bythe head 13, acting on the screw-threads 12. As soon asthe pin 21 strikes the screw 31 the pin 10 acts as a fulcrum for thelever 3. Pivoted to the rear end of the'lever 3 is a link 22, the loweren-d of which is pivoted to a projection 24 on a casting 25, which bymeans of ears 26 an-d 27 is pivoted on the pin 6. The perforated ear 26is journaled on the center of the pin 6 between the portions oftheVert-ical projection 8 of the plate 9.

At about the center of the casting 25 is formed an upwardly-projectingportion 28, in the perforated upper portion of which, 29, is pivoted oneend of a link 30, the other end of which is pivoted to ashort crank 32,which is Iirmly fastened to a vertical shaft 33 in any suitable way.This shaft 33 is carried in a long sleeve 34. (See Fig. 18.) The lowerend of the shaft 33 is bent forwardly, as shown at 35, terminating in atoe 36, the inner side of which presses upon the edge of a button whenthe latter is placed in position to be sewed onto a garment or fabric.

The guard 37 is attached to the casting 25 by screws 38, and when thepresser-bar is IOO IIO

raised the guard is raised with it, as shown in Fig. 19. After thebutton is putin place the guard and the parts of the button-chuck assumethe position shown in Fig. 18. By means of the connections described apressure downwardly upon the treadle n lifts the presser-lever, so thatthe fabric may be placed underneath, and swings the member 35 of thebutton-chuck outwardly and rearwardly, so that the button may be placedin the chuck. y

The button-chuck is composed of four members, one of which, 35, hasalready been described. The other three members will now be described,reference being had more especially to Figs. 14, 15, 18, and 19. Thecasting 5, as already explained, has aslot 4. This slotis expanded, asshown at 39 and 40. In the latter slot the part shown in section in Fig.14 and numbered 41aN is the needle-carrying bar. On three sides of theslot pins 41, 42, and 43 are mounted in the plate or casting 5. 0n theseare carried three jaws of the buttonchuck 44,45,and 46,each of which hasa curved recess at its lower end for the reception of the button. (SeeFig. 19.) The two jaws 44 and 45 are placed opposite each other, andeach is provided with ascrew-threaded boss, numbered 47 and 48 on Fig.15. Through these bosses the screw 49 passes, provided with a head 50and with` right-hand and left-hand screw-threads. The movement of thehead 50 causes the jaws 44 and 45 to approach each other at the samerate. The screw is held in its proper relative position in regard to theother parts of the machine by means of collars 51 and 52, which arelocated on said screw on either side of the perforated projection 53,which is firmly held by the plate 5, being indirectly fastened thereto.

The fourth clamp 46 of the button-chuck is provided with an extension54, the ends of which are slotted, as shown at 55 and 56. These slottedends engage with pins 57 and 58, projecting upwardly from the bosses 47`and 48. These slots are so arranged that the movement of the screw 49 tothe right not only causes the jaws 44 and 45 to approach each other atthe same rate, but it also causes jaw 46 to approach at the same rate,and by reason of the jaws being adjustably held in the same relation tothe plate 5 buttons of various sizes are always properly adjusted, sothat when the three jaws44, 45, and 46 are screwed together to lit thebutton, and the fourth jaw 35 is brought inwardly to rest against thebutton',y they will be centrally disposed with reference to theneedle-bar center, as shown in Fig. 14. The projection 53 is an integralpart of the ring 59, which by means of the screws 60 is attached to thering 61, which is either made integral with the plate 5or irmlyattachedthereto. The lower part of the ring 61 is provided with a circu` largroove, in which runs the annular bevl eled gear-wheel 62, forming apart of the winding mechanism, which will be hereinafter described. (SeeFig. 19.)

Provision is made for the adjustment of the plate 5 in the followingmanner: Attached to a boss 63 on the needle end of the gooseneck 2, bymeans of a screw 64 is a plate 65. (See Figs. 1, 18, and 19.) This plateis provided with a horizontal slot 66 and a projecting perforatedportion 67, in the hole of which is mounted the screw-rod 69, thelongitudinal portion of which is adjusted by the nuts 68. By means of apin 70 this screwrod is secured in a slot 72 in an upwardly-eX- tendingprojection 73 of the plate 5 on the front thereof. Both ends of thescrew 69 have [iatlened portions 74 and 75, the lower portion 74 beinglocated within the slot 72 and the upper portion 75 being located in avertical narrow slot 76 inthe plate 65.

V By means of the connections shown the plate 5 maybe adjusted up anddown with very little lost motion by turning the nuts 68, the pin 70allowing the necessary pivotal swing and the screw 69 preventing anysidewise motion. Of course when the plate is adjusted upwardly itcarries with it all the parts of the button-chuck and allows thepresser-bar 14 to be lifted a greater distancev under the influence ofthe spring 2d, thus providing for fabrics of different thicknesses, andby means of this adjustment the button may be held a greater or lessdistance from the fabric, thus varying the length 'of the thread-neck asdesired. The adjustment of the plate 5 also carries with it "the windingmechanism as well as the button-chuck, as will be hereinafter described.

By depressing the treadle n the presser-lever 14 is raised and thebutton-chuck opened. The fabric is then inserted under the presserleverand a button placed between the three jaws 44, 45, and 46 of thebutton-chuck. The pedal is then released and the presserbar falls,confining the goods, and the fourth jaw 35 of the button-chuck swings inand firmly holds the button in its proper position, ready to be sewedon, as shown in Fig. 18. As soon as the pressure on the treadle 'n istaken off the spring on the bar 1 restores all the related parts, thebutton-chuck, presserbar, tbc., to their proper positions.

After the fabric and button have been inserted in the machine the sewingoperation is next in order. The operator presses down the right-handtreadle 77, to which is pivoted a rod 78. This rod is adjustablyconnected to a second rod 79 by means of a perforated clamp 80 and theset-screws 81. (See Fig. l.) The rod 79 is connected near the back ofthe machine to a lever 22, jonrnaled on a stout pin 83 in perforatedears or projections 84 and 85, extending downwardly from thebed-plate,with which plate they may be made integral orto which theymaybe attached in any suitable manner. The pivotal portion 86.

of this lever is quite long, as shown in Fig. 4. Opposite the part 82and nearly parallel there- ICO IIO

with is the part 87, forming the second arm of the lever. This arm 87has a pointed projection 88, (see Figs. 2 and 13,) on which are fastenedthe pins 89 and 90, the use of which will be hereinafter described. Theextreme end of the arm 87 is considerably enlarged, as shown at 91,which end part is composed of two parallel portions 93 and 94, united bya Hat portion 92, (see'Fig. 4,) forming quite a large trough. Un oneside of one of the parts 91 is a projection 95 (see Figs. 2 and 4) forthe purpose of strengthening thesarne. On the part 94 is a boss 96, (seeFig. 4,) carrying a pin 97. (See Fig. 1.) As the arm 82 is moveddownward by the motion of the treadle 77 the arm 87, carrying theextensions 93 and 94, is moved upward until the pawl 98, operated by thespring 99, passes the pin 90 and springs under it, (see Fig. 13,)holding it fast until it is disengaged therefrom. After the treadle 77has once been moved down, causing the pawl 98 to engage j the pin 90,the lever 87 is held in this position until the required number ofstitches have been inserted through the holes in the button and therequired number of windings put around the neck, when the pawl 98 willbe released and then the machine can be operated again. I

It should be understood that the operation of the winding mechanism isentirely beyond the control of the operator, and that the extent of itsoperation is determined by the adjustment of the machine, and that afterthe treadle 77 has once been moved the machine cannot be accidentallyoperated in any way until the sewing and winding operations arecompleted and the pawl 98 disengaged from the pin 90, thus preventingmistakes on the part of the operator. As the arm 87is thrown vupward itcauses a partial rotation of the shaft 100 (see Fig. 4) against thetension of the spring 101, which is wound around said shaft, by thefollowing means: Within the trough formed between the parts 93 and 94 isengaged the end of an arm 103, firmly fixed to the shaft 100 by the pin104 or any other suitable means. Thevend of the arm 103 is expanded, asshown at 105, to nearly fill the trough between the parts 93 and 94. Inthis end is journaled on a pin 106 the pawl 107, and the spring 108normally presses the pawl 107 to the right, as shown on Fig. 4. Thispawl 107 has a projection 109, (see Fig. 4,) against which the pin 97strikes when the treadle 77 is operated. The movement of the pawl 107causes the movement of the arm 103, and therefore a movement of theshaft 100. The pawl 107 at its rear end is provided with anadjusting-screw 110, (see Figs. 4 and 16,) held in place by a nut 111.This adjustment is for the purpose of stopping the sewing at exactly thedesired moment.

The sewingindex mechanism,ormechanism for exactly regulating the numberof stitches passed through the holes in the button, will next bedescribed. The bed-plate is provided with a slot 112. (See Figs. 16 and17.) Extending over this slot 112 is a slotted indexplate 113, fastenedto the bed-plate byscrews 114. (See Fig. 1.) The index-plate is providedwith a graduated scale, so that the exact number of stitches can beregulated by sliding the hand-wheel 115, Fig. 1 and 17, back and forth.This hand-wheel is screwthreaded on a vertical stud of the riser 116,which extends downwardly through the slot in the bed-plate and index-pan120. The riser 116 is a little wider than the slot in the index-plate,and above the slot in the indexplate is a flat plate 117, a little widerthan the slot in the index-plate, and two pins 118 (shown indotted'lines in Fig. 16) extend from the plate 117 into the riser'116 toprevent the plate 117 from twisting. The riser 116 extends downwardlythrough a slot 119 in the index-pan 120, which will be hereinafterdescribed. This riser 116 is formed integral with an arm 121, which armis loosely mounted on the shaft 100 by means of a long boss 122. (SeeFig. 16.) When the hand-wheel is loosened, the arm 121 and its attachedparts may be moved back and forth, thus varying the number of stitches,since the number of stitches is determined by the extent of travel ofthe pin 124, t-he initial position of which is determined by theposition of the arm 121, which carries the steel shoe 1219, againstwhich the head 143 of the lever 142 bears. The final position of the pin124 is constant and is that position which is one-half of a revolutionof the shaft e later than the position in which the pawl 107 is releasedfrom the pin 97. The shaft@ carries the spiral index-screw 123. (SeeFig. 4.) The tilting index-pan 120 carries a downwardly-projecting pin124, which when the pedal 77 is pressed down enters and engages with thescrew 123, this screw being fixed to the shaft e by the set-screw 125 orby any other suitable means. As the shaft e revolves, as it doesintermittingly under the action of the belt c by clutch mechanism thatwill be hereinafter described, it drives the needle, as heretoforedescribed, and the pin 124 is carried forward until the plate 126, Fig.16, strikes the screw 110. This causes the pawl 107 to move against thetension of the spring 108, which releases the pawl 107 from the pin 97,and the shaft 100 under the influence of the strong spring 101 bringsthe position shown in full lines in Fig. 7. The distance which the plate126 is set from the screw 110 regulates the number of stitches which thesewing mechanism makes.

The means for releasing the pawl 98 from the pin 90 will next bedescribed. The pawl 98 is loosely mounted on a shaft 127, Figs. 4, 13,and 16, and the spring 99, secured tosaid shaftand said pawl, operatesto normally keep said pawl pressed up against the pin 90. An adjustablestop for this pawl is provided, consisting of the screw 128, passingthrough an extension 129 on the index-pan 120 and ICO IIO

provided with a set-nut 130 for holding it in any desired position. Infact, the whole index-pan is mounted upon this shaft 127,which passesthrough perforations in the edges thereof, as shownin Fig. 16. Themovement of the index-pan 120 from the position shown in Fig. 13 back toits original horizontal position causes the screw 128 to strike againstthe pawl 98, forcing it forward out of contact with the pin 90. Theindex-pan 120 is provided with a downward extension 131,

see Fior. 13, andto this extensionis ivoted i a rod 132, around which iswrapped a spring 133, loose washers 134being provided against which saidspring bears. The rod 132 is screwthreaded at one end and carries theadjusting-nuts 135. The screw-threaded end of the rod 132 passes looselythrough a perforation in the arm 136, which is made integral with theboss 137 of the arm 103, which boss is journaled on the shaft 100. (SeeFig. 4.) When the treadle 77 is pressed down, drawing with it the lever82 97 and moving the arm 103 andthe shaft 100, the arm 136 is alsomoved, compressing the spring 133, tilting the pan 120, and bringing thepin 124 into engagement with the screw-thread 123, as already described.

The operation of the tiltingindex-pan will next be described, referencebeing had especially to Figs. 4, 13, 16, and 17. This indexpan, asalready described, is mounted near one edge thereof on the shaft 127.Opposite this shaft are two right-angled pins 138, fastened to the underside of the bed-plate with their ends projecting under one edge of theindex-pan,thuslilnitingitstilting movement. The index-pan is providedwith four slots, the long central slot 119 serving to guide the movementof the pin 124, as will be hereinafter described. In front of this slotis a curved slot 139, the use of which will hereinafter be describedwhen the operation of sewing on a four-hole button is described. Theslot 140 provides for the free motion of the pawl 107, so that it willnot touch the pan. The slot 141 at the back affords a space for theoperation of the means which retracts the index-finger 124.

It will be understood, of course, that before the sewing mechanism canbe operated the pan 120 must be tilted into the position shown in Figs.13 and 17, so that the pin 124 will engage the screw-thread 123. This isaccomplished by the movement of the arm 136 and the spring 133. Theindex-pin 124 is carried at tbe end of a curved lever 142. (Shown partlyin full and partly in dotted lines in Fig. 16.) The upper head of thelever 142 is enlarged, as shown at 143 in Fig. 16, and is a little widerthan the slot 119. On the pin 124 are mounted two arms 144 and 145,which are at right angles to each other and which, together with the arm126, are formed in a single piece, the arm 126 being parallel to butextending in the opposite direction from the arm 145. At the point wherethe arm 126 joins the arm 144 is a pin146, riveted therein. This pin hasau enlarged head 147, slightly wider than the slot 119 in the index-pan120. Between the head 147 and the piece formed by the arms 126, 144, and145 the pin 146 is enlarged to loosely Afit 'the slot 119, and a washerwhich loosely tits the slot 119 is placed on the pin 124 between thehead 143 and the piece just mentioned, which washer and the enlargedportion of the pin 146, working in the` slot 119, serve to cause the pin124 to travel in a straight line, carrying with it the arms 145 and 126.The lever 142 is pivoted on a pin 148, which extends upward from the topof the index-pan 120. This lever has a slot 149 surrounding the pin 148,so that when the pin 124 moves forward in a straight line the lever 142may yield a little to permit rectilinear motion of the lever 124. Thepin 148 4has an enlarged head 150 to keep the lever from dropping downover the piu. A spring 151 is attached to the pan and to a link 152,which is attached to the lever 142. This spring serves to draw back thelever 142 and the parts connected thereto as soon as the pin 124 isreleased from the screw 123 after the sewing operation is completed,bringing the pin 124 and its connected parts back to their originalposition, ready for the next sewing operation. This retraction, however,cannot take place until the winding mechanism has been operated. Themeans by which such retraction is prevented will be described inconnection with the winding mechanism. The sewing operation stops justbefore the pin 124 has become disengaged from the lefthand end (lookingat Fig. 4) of the screw 123, and the pan 120 is kept tilted down in theposition shown in Fig. 13 until after the winding is completed, so thatit is impossible to start the sewing mechanism again untilafter thecompletion of the winding mechanism.

The means whereby when in sewing on a four-hole button the number ofstitches is automatically divided and half of said stitches put into thefront pair of holes and the other half of said stitches put in the rearpair of holes will now be described. It should be stated at the outsetthat in this case the handwheel 115 should be set for an even number ofstitches. Referring to Fig. 16, the long boss 122 has made integrallytherewith a downwardly-projecting pin 153 of considerable length.Mounted on this pin is a sleeve 154, held in place by a pin 155.l Thesleeve 154 has a connection 156 arranged at right angles to said sleeve,and this part 156 has connected to it at right angles thereto a sleeve157, through which passes a rod 158. Frein this rod extends a pin 159,which passes into the slot 139 in the index-pan 120, said pin 159 beingbent at right angles, as shown at 160, in order to give it the properdirection. The lower end of the rod 158 is supported in perforated ears161 and 162, which extend outwardly from a long sleeve 163, pivotallymounted on a pin 164, which projects down- IOO IIO

wardly from the under side of the bed-plate to which it is secured. Thispin 164 passes through still another slot 165 in the index-pan 120. Apin 166 serves to keep the sleeve 163 on the pin 164,and a washer 167ispreferably used between said pin 166 and said sleeve 163. It should benoted that the lower end of the bar 158, as shown in Fig.16, ispractically fixed. It merely has a slight pivotal motion. The upper endof the bar 158 is, however, capable not only of a pivotal motion, butalso of a sliding motion whenever the arm 121 is moved on the shaft 100when the wheel 115 is moved on the index-plate to determine the numberof stitches passed through the button. The free end of the projectingpin 159 is practically in a line between the-two pins 153 and 164, onwhich the arm 158 is pivoted. It follows, therefore, according to theprinciple of similar triangles that a movement of the arm 121 causes amovement of the free end of the pin 159 of exactly half the distance ofthe movement of the arm 121, considering the movement of the free end ofthe pin 159 to be in a straight line parallel to the shaft 100. Thoughthe free end of the pin 159 is moved in a circular path, the inaccuracythereby introduced is practically negligible. Whenever theindeX-wheel115 is moved, therefore, the free end of t-hepin 159 is moved so thatits tripping position is just half-way between the center of the pin 124when said pin is in its initial position and the center of said pin whenit is at the left-hand limit of its motion, as shown in Fig. 4.Therefore when the pin 124 is moved during the sewing Operation theworking face of the arm 145, which is in line with the center of pin124, will trip the pin 159 at exactly the time when half the number ofstitches have been put through the front pairof holes of the button.When the arm 145 strikes the pin 159, it turns said pin to the left, asshown on Figs. 4 and16, and operates the shifting mechanism by meanswhich will now be described. Between the ears 161 and 162 and onthebar158is fastened avertical bar 168. (See Fig. 17.) A p in 169, whichpasses through this vertical bar 168 and the bar 158, unites them firmlytogether, both ofthem being free to revolve in the ears 161 162 and thesleeve 157. The end of the bar 168 is slightly larger than theperfor-ations in the ears 161 and 162, thereby holding the bar 158 inits proper position. Aspring 170 (see Fig. 16) is between the verticalbar 168 and the sleeve 163, tending to throw this bar always to theright-hand end of the machine. The upper part of the j bar 168 has acorner or notch 171, which corner the plate 172 is adapted to engage.This plate is rigidly mounted by means of screws or in other desiredmanner on an extension 173 of the casting 174, which casting 174 ismounted on the shaft 127, as shown in Fig. 17, to which shaft it isattached in any suitable manner. The rear end of the casting 174 has aprojection 175, adapted to engage with a projection 176 on a downwardprojecwhich will now be described. It should be noted, however, thatwhen the machine is sewing on a two-hole button the pin 159 is merelybrushed aside by the movement of the arm 145 against the tension of thespring 170 and the shifting of the button-carrying mechanism does nottake place, because when the extension 175 is brought down to touch thestop 176 the plate172 cannot engage the corner 171 in the bar 168, as itis above it, and unless this engagement takes place and the screwpermits of the proper movement of the projection 175 the button-shiftingmechanism cannot operate.

The button-shifting mechanism operates automatically and is set inposition to be operated in the following manner: When a four-hole buttonis to be sewed on, the parts are arranged as in Fig. 12, where t-he rods passes loosely througha large aperture 180 in the arm 181. This arm181 is rigidly attached by means of a set-screw 182 to the shaft 127.This shaft 127 has upon it a strong spring 183, one end of which bearsagainst the bed-plate and the other end of which is carried by a boss185, fastened to the shaft 127 bya set-screw 186. shaft 127 (see Fig.12) also carries asplit nut 188, a set-screw 189 serving to rmly holdthe nut 188 in any desired adjusted position upon the shaft 127. On theupper part of the nut 188 is a pin 189, loosely passing betweeuears 190191, (see Fig.12,) which project downward from the plate 9 through aslot in the bedplate. A movement of the nut 188 to the left, as shown inFig. 12, will carry with it the entire button-holding chuck and theparts connected therewith, so that a partial rotation of the shaft 127when the parts are properly adjusted will shift the button-carryingchuck forward, so that the vibrating needle will pass through the rearpair of holes, and this shifting is effected, as said above, at exactlythe instant when half the number of stitches have been passed throughthe holes in the button. 0f course in the position shown in Fig. 17 nosuch shifting can take place, because the casting 174, which is firmlyheld between the screw 178 and the stop 176, prevents any rotation oftheshaft 127. On the other hand, when the screw 178 isturned back ashifting will occur at the proper time. It cannot occur, however, untilhalf the number of stitches have been passed through the rear pair ofholes of the button,

(See Fig. 4.) lThe IOO IIO

'amplis because up to that moment the plate 172 is engaging the notch171 in the bar 168, thus preventing the movement of the shaft 127, towhich the plate 172 is rigidly attached by means of the extension 173and casting 174. At the proper moment, however, when the arm 145, whichis driven forward by the pin 124 as it engages the moving screw 123,strikes the pin 159 it moves said pin, the bar 158, and the bar 168,which is attached thereto, bringing the corner 171 out of engagementwith the plate 172, at which moment the spring 183 imparts a partialrotation to the shaft 127, the amount of rotation given to this shaftbeing determined, however, by the position of the .screw 178. VThus by asimple means of adjustment the machine may be set to sew on a two-holebutton or a four-hole button, and in the latter case the shifting fromthe front pair of holes to the rear pair of holes is automatically doneby the machine just at the instant when half the number of stitches havebeenv passed through the button. When two-hole buttons are used, the rods is slipped out of the aperture 180 in the arm 181 (see Fig. 12) andthe screw 178 is adjusted to bring the extension 175 into engagementwith the stop 176. (See Fig. 17.) Either or both of these adjustmentswill render the button-shifting mechanisin inoperative. The pulley CZruns constantly; but the shaft e only runs intermittently when aprojection on the pulley engages a clutch fastened to the shaft. Thisengagement takes place when the treadle 77 is pressed down and theengagement continues until the requisite number of stitches have beenpassed through the button,when the clutch is automatically disengagedand the sewing ceases. The mechanism for effecting these results willneXt be described.

sor

The bed-plate of the machine is longer than the usual bed-plate of asewing-machine, and the right-hand end, as shown in Fig. 4, is simply anopen framework itted with bosses, which serve as bearings for the shaftse and 100. On the Yshaft 100 is journaled a long sleeve 192, said sleevebeing long enough to just till in the open space in the framework. Thissleeve is attached to the shaft 100 by bolts 193, or it may be fastenedthereto in any desired manner. To this sleeve 192 and preferablymadeintegral therewith is a C-lever194, preferably made with a centralrib 195 for strength. This lever is shown in Figs. 1 to 7. This lever isfastened to the shaft 100 and encircles the shaft e. Joined to the endsof the lever is the switch-cam 196. (See Figs. 2, 7, 10, and 11.)Attached to the under side of the bed-plate and encircling the shaft e,which passes th rough a perforation therein, is a wide right-angledsupport 197, (see Figs. 4 and 6,) it being attached to the bed-plate byscrews 198. The right-hand end of this support is cut away, leaving twoears 199 and 200, in which is pivoted a long pin 201, on which ismounted a yoke 202 with a bell-crank extension 203,

made integrally therewith. This yoke carries pins 204 212, which looselyengage On 0pposite sides of a groove 205 in a pulley 206, which isconnected by a long sleeve 207 with the driving-pulley d. lt is evidentthat the shifting of the pulley 206 bythe yoke 202 will also shift thepulley d. The pulley d carries a projection 208, which is adapted toengage when the pulley is shifted with a sector-shaped clamp 209, whichis keyed or otherwise fastened to the shaft e. This clamp is beveled offat 210 and provided with a groove 211, (see Fig. 4,) the purpose ofwhich will be hereinafter described. When the treadle 77 is pulled downto cause the pin 124 to engage the screw 123, the same movement causesthe partial rotation of the shaft 100, as already described, and thisshaft in its motion carries with it the C-lever 194,

and by means of the switch-cam 196 shifts the pulleys 206 and d, so thatthe projection 208 on the latter will engage the clamp 209 and cause theshaft e to rotate by the rotation of the pulley d. This rotationcontinues until the required number of stitches have been passed throughthe button, when it automatically ceases. This shifting of the pulleys206 and CZ is caused bythe motion of the C-lever through the followinginstrumentalities. Toward the rear of the machine the yoke 202 carriesan elongated pin 212, the inner end of which engages in the groove 205and the outer end of which engages in a groove in the switch-cam 196.This groove, as shown in Figs. 10 and 11, is composed of a straight part213 and inclined parts 214 and 337, (see Figs. 10 and 11,) these twogrooves being separated by the switch 215, the purpose of which will behereinafterI more fully described.

Then the sewing mechanism is out of operation-in other words, when theC-lever is i down, as Ishown in Fig. 3-the pin 212 occupies the dottedposition shown at the top of Fig. 11. When the treadle 77 is pusheddown, which operation raises the C-lever into the position shown -indotted lines in Fig. 7, this motion lifts the switch-cam 196, and byreason of the inclined slot 214 causes the yoke ICO IIS

202 to be shifted to the rightiu Fig. 4, bringing the projection 208 onthe wheel d in contact with the clamp 209, whereby the rot-ation of thepulley CZ causes the rotation of the shaft e, which rotation continuesuntil the arm 126 strikes the screw 110, Fig. 16, when, as alreadydescribed, the pawl 107 is disengaged from the pin 97, the shaft isreleased, and the spring 101 revolves said shaft and brings the C-lever194 tothe position shown by full lines, Fig. 7, whereby the cam 196swings the yoke 202 to the left back beyond its original position,disengaging the pulley CZ from the clamp 209, whereupon the motion ofthe shaft e stops. Moreover, the shaft e cannot be again started torotate until the winding mechanism has been operated.

The winding mechanism will next be de- (See Fig. 19.)

scribed, reference being had especially to Figs. 3 to 11 and to Fig. 1.Connected to the right-hand end of the bed-plate, near the rear thereof,is an uprightbrace or standard 216.

A rod 217 is connected at one end to the top of this brace by a screw218, and at the other end this rod is fastened to the gooseneck 2 inanysuitable manner. Journaled in the standard 216 and in a bearing 219on the rear of the gooseneck is the driving-shaft 220 of the windingmechanism. 4This shaft 220 has on it a pulley 221, which by means of acord or belt 222 is connected with a pulley 223, which is looselymounted on a bearing formed integral with the right-angle piece 197. Thehub 224 is interposed between the bearing 219 and the pulley 221 and isformed integral with said pulley. On the shaft 220 is an indexscrew 2,25for governing the number of turns of the thread that will be twistedaround the neck of thread connecting the button and fabric. The shaft220 is connected with the shaft 268 (see Fig. 1) by a universal joint226, and a second universaljoint 227 connects the shaft 268 with a shaft228, which carries a gear-wheel 229, which drives the winding mechanism.The shaftf229 is journaled in a long sleeve 230, which is carried by anextension 231, which extension is firmly secured by screws or in anysuitable manner to the upper part of the plate 5, which plate also isprovided with an extending arm 232, carrying an upward extension 233,which termivnates in a' hollow sleeve 234,in which is journaled a shaftcarrying a gear-wheel 235. On

the other end of this shaft is journaled a beV- eled gear-wheel 236,which engages the annular beveled gear-wheel 62. (See Figs. 1, 2, 18,and19.) The annular beveled gear-wheel 62 carries twodownwardly-projecting extensions 237 and 238, which are arrangedopposite to each other to secure a perfect balance. In the projection237 is tightly fastened a shaft 239, on which is loosely mounted athread-spool 240. A spring 241, pressing against this spool and theprojection 237, allows said spool to rotate, but keeps it fromoverrunning. A clip of usual construction prevents said spool fromcoming off. Securely fastened in the projection 238 is a shaft or pin242, t-he outer end of which is screwthreaded and carries anadjusting-nut 243. Loosely mounted on said shaft 242 are two disks 244and 245, and-a spring 246 keeps said disks yieldingly in contact witheach other, whick disks serve as a thread-guide and also to maintain acertain amount of tension upon the thread. A washer 247 is locatedbetween the disk 244 and the extension'238. The gearwheel 62 alsocarries two thread-guides 248 y and249. (Shownin Fig.1.) Theextension238This arm 251 carries two projecting jaws 252' and 253, which jaws arearranged at an angle to each otherand have theirinner edges sharpeued,thus acting as a pair of scissors,although in operation these are simplycarried aro-und the button-chuck and are not caused to approach orrecede from each other. The jaw 252 is provided with a slot 254, andaset-screw 255 passes through said slot into the supporting-arm 251, sothat the upper jaw may be adjusted toward the under one or away from it.The use of these scissors is to cut the upper sewing-thread carried bythe needle, extending from the previously-sewed button just before thewindingV begins, as otherwise the needle-thread would be drawn down overthe edge of the button, presenting an unsightly appearance.

Referring now to Figs. 1, 5, and 6, the shaft 220, carrying thewinding-index screw-thread 225, has also secured to it at its right-handend a circular block 256, provided with a cutawayiportion 257, whichacts as a cam-face. Made integrally with said block is a sectorshapedprojection 258, provided with a camface 259 and a slot 260. (See Figs. 5and 6.) The screw-thread 225 begins at just about the point where thecam-face 257 ends. The shaft 220 is, as said already, operated by therotation of the pulleys 223 and 221; but as the pulley 223 is looselymounted on a bearing formed on a piece 197 the shaft 220 is not revolveduntil the projection 261 on the pulley 223 is engaged by thecorresponding projection 262 on the pulley206, as shown in Fig. 6. Thepulley 206 therefore has three positions. Thefirstisaneutralpositionwhenthe projection 208 on the pulley d is not in, engagement with the clamp209 and when the projection 262 is not in connection with the projection261. This occurs before the machine is started in operation. The secondposition is that shown in,Fig. 5, in which the pulley d has been shiftedto the right, engaging the clamp 209, which rotates the shaft e andoperates the sewing mechanism. The third position is shown in Fig. 6with the projections 261 and 262 in contact, which is the position foroperating the winding mechanism. Therefore the winding mechanism and thesewing mechanism can never be operated at the same time, and the windingmechanism cannot be set in operation until after the sewing operation isfinished, and, as before explained, the sewing mechanism cannot be setin operation until after the operation of the winding mechanism isiinished, thus guarding against mistakes on the part of the operator.The arm 203 terminates in two ears 263, between which ears is pivotedthe reduced end of a bar 265 by means of a pin 264. (See Fig. 3.) Theupperend of the :rod or bar 265 passes loosely through a clip 266,secured by screws 267 and 218 to the top of the standard 216, Fig. 3,the latter screw 218 also passing through the fiattened end of the bar217. Near the upper end of the bar 265 is a sleeve 269, which encirclessaid bar.

IOC)

IIO

This sleeve is provided with a slot 270, in which works a pin 271, whichis fastened to the bar or rod 265. The sleeve 269 is the end of a plate272. This plate is cutaway, forming ears 273 and 274, in which isjournaled, by means of a pin 275, a plate 277, which extends throughaslot 278, which is cut in the upper partof the standard 216. l(See Fig.3.) This plate 277 is adapted to enter the slot 260 in the block 256 onthe shai't 220 when Vthe parts are in the proper position, and when itenters said slot, as shown in Fig. 5, the shaft 220 is prevented fromrotation and the winding mechanism stopped. Around the bar 265 is aspring 279, the upper end of which is attached to a pin 280 in the plate272. The action of the springl 279 normally forces the plate 277inwardly throughthe slot 278; but when it is struck by the cam-surface259 of the block 256 it will yield until the slot 260 comes oppositesaid plate when it will be forced into said slot by said spring 279,thus locking the shaft 220. At the lower end of the rod 265 there is asimilar construction. A downward extension 281 from the righthand end ofthe bed-plate is provided with a slot 282. The lower end of this slot isclosed by a plate 283, secured thereto by screws 284.

Within this slot works the plate 285, which is adapted to be engaged bythe cam-face 210` of the block 209 and to enter the slot 2l1,th uslooking the shaft e, to which the clamp 209 is'4 fastened,againstrotation. (See Fig. 4.) The plate 285 is journaled by means of a pin286- in Years 287 of a plate 288, which plato termi-` When the plate 277engages theslot 260, asV

shown in Fig. 5, the winding mechanism is locked and the sewingmechanism free to opcrate.

the sewing mechanism is locked and the winding mechanism free tooperate, while inithe neutral or inoperative position, as shown in` Fig.l, both the sewing and winding mechan-l isms are locked. The rod 265, asalready said,

is carried on the arm 203, which is an integral part of the yoke 202. Itfollows that the shifting of the yoke shifts the rod 265, whichA v actsto lock the winding mechanism and unlock the sewing mechanism, or viceversa,un der the usual conditions of sewing, when it is desired to winda thread around the neck of thread which secu res the button to thefabric.

The mechanism for determining the number of turns to be given, to theWinding thread will next be described. 293 represents a pin adapted toengage the screw-index 225 of the winding rnehfdnism. (See Fig. 8.) Thispin The lower end of the spring 279 is atl On the other hand, 'when theplate. 285 engages the slot 211, as shown in Fig. 6,

ceiggmtisarmi on the arc of a circle and provided with adjusting-holes296. One end of this arm is bent, as at 297, to contact with the head ofan adjusting-screw 298, which passes through the standard 216 and isprovided with a nut 299. This screw is so adjusted that when the part297 strikes it the pin 293 will be under the-beveled portion 257 of theblock 256, as shown in Fig. 5. The lower part of the arm 294 is enlargedand perforated, and through it passes a rodor shaft 300, on the end ofwhich is a clamping-screw 301. Behind the arm 294 is a second shorterarm 305, arranged parallel with' it an'dterminating in an 'enlargedportion 306, throu'ghj which the shaft 300 passes. A large washer 307rests against'a shoulder v(not shown) on the shaft 300, and the arm 305and washer`307 are rigidly secured to said shaft, so that by tighteningup the screw 301 the'parm 294 is firmly clamped to the shaft 300'. Belowthe perforated portion lthe arm 305 is provided with an extension whichterminates in an ear 302, through which passes an adj usting-screw 303,provided with a nut 304. The arm 305 carries a pin 308, (see Fig. 6,)adapted to pass through the holes 296. After loosening the screw 301 therelative position of the arms 294 and 305 may be varied, thusdetermining thenumber of turns to be given to the winding thread. Theholes 296 are arranged at such a distance apart that each one representstwo, turns of the winding thread;.but of course'the number of holesmight be doubled, if desired. From'the rear edge of the bed-plate twoears'309 and 310 rextend upwardly, as sho'wniu Figs. 5 and 6. Secured inthese ears by any suitable means is a pin 311. 4 Loosely mounted on thispin is a long sleeve i312, extending practically the whole distancebetween the ears 309 and 310. Near its center this sleeve is providedwith an upward extension 313, which `extension terminates in a longsleeve 314, (see Fig. 7,) and in this sleeve the shaft300 is journaled.A shoulder 315 is secured to the end of the shaft 300 by a pin316, bymeans of which and the washer 307 end play of the shaft 300 isprevented.` The shoulder 315 is provided with a rearwardly-extending'arm317, which is provided with a wire' 318, arranged at right anglesthereto, to which Wire is attached a spring 319, the other end of thespring being secured to thewire 320.

The rear end of the lbed-plate of the machine is provided With'anupwardly-extending inclined plate 321, through a perforation in whichpasses th'epin 322, secured in place bythe nut 323. The upper part ofthis pin is expanded, as shown at 324, and around this expanded portionis wound a spring 325, beneath which is secured a vibratory arm 326. Thespring 325 is secured to the wire 320 and to a pin in the arm 326 andtends to move the arm 326 continually toward the .switch-u cain, 1961 ThSleeve 3 12 isprovided with an l `ad@integraltlieiigwithand extend- IOCIIO

ing rearwardly therefrom, which arm is adapted t'o engage the top of thepin 322, which thereby limits the movement of said sleeve. While thesewing operation is going on the C-lever 194'isin the position shown indotted lines in Fig.` 7. When the sewing operation is finished, thelever 194 is shifted into the position shown in full lines in Fig. 7, inwhich position the beveled stop 328, which is secured to the outsideofQsaid lever near one end thereof, engages the arm 326. When thishappens,- the sewing mechanism is locked by the plate 285, as alreadydescribed, and the winding mechanism is unlocked, the fall of the cam,the shifting of the yoke 202, and the locking of the sewing mechanism bythe plate 285 and the unlocking `and starting of the winding mechanismoccurring practically simultaneously. The winding operation 'J' thenbegun and continues until the screw 303, which is driven to the right asthe pin 293 is driven to the left by the winding index-screw 225,strikes the arm 326and gradually pushes it against the tension of thespring 325 to the right, nally pushing the arm 326 from underneath thestop 328 and allowing the C-lever 194 to drop still farther under theinfluence of the spring 101 on the shaft 100. The C-lever drops until itstrikes the screw 330, (see Fig. 3,) which screw engages adownwardprojection 331 from the bed-plate, said screw being providedwith a securing-nut 332. In this position the machine is in what mightbe called a neutral position-that is to say, neither adapted for sewingor winding. The C-lever has, therefore, three positionsthe iirst orneutral position, as shown in Fig. 3, in which the driving-pulley d isnot connected so as to operate either the winding or sewing mechanism;the second position, (shown in dotted lines in Fig. 7,) adapted for thesewing operation, the pulley d being shifted to the right, as shown-inFig. 5, and thereby operating the shaft e, and the third position,(shown in full lines in Fig. 7,) in which the pulley d has been shiftedso as to operate the winding mechanism, as shown in Fig. 6.

Projecting forward from the left-hand end of the lsleeve 312, as shownin Figs. 5 and 6, and made integrally therewith is an arm 333, which isadapted to contact with a screw 334, provided with a set-nut 335, whichscrew passes through a perforation in an extension is in' its lowestposition.

336 of the C-lever 194. VBy means of this contact the pin 293 is keptout of contact with the winding index-screw 225 when the C-lever Whenthis C-lever 194 is in its lowest position, as shown in Fig. 3, the pin293 is withdrawn from the screw 225, and then the spring y319 draws thearm 294 into the position shown in Fig. 5. The

g spring 319, therefore, hasadouble functionnamely, to hold the pin 293in engagement with'the screw 225 until it is forcibly withdrawn fromthis engagement and then to return the arm'294 to -its initial position,as shown in Figs. 1 and 5.

Referring now to Figs. 10 and 11, the action of the switch-cam will bedescribed more in detail. When the C-lever is in its lowest position, asshown in Fig. 3, the pin 212 is at its highest position in theswitch-cam 196, as shown in dotted lines at Vthe top of Fig. 10. Whenthe C-lever is in its intermediate position, as shown in full lines,Fig. 7, it will be locked in that position under ordinaryconditions-that is to say, under conditions in which the windingmechanism is not made inoperative by the adjustment of the parts-bymeans ofthe arm 326 coming underneath the stop 328, as shown in Fig. 7.In the position shown in Fig. 3 neither lthe sewing nor the windingvmechanism is operative, because neither the pulley d nor the pulley 206is /t/zlutched with the driving mechanism of the winding mechanism orwith the sewing mech'- anism, as the parts are in their neutralposition.

While the C-lever is being moved from the position shown in Fig. 3 tothe position shown in full lines in Fig. 7 the pin 212 passes .downwardthrough the slot 213, which is straight, there being, therefore, noshifting action exerted on the pin. When the C-lever is lifted from theposition shown in full lines in Fig. 7 to that shown in dotted lines inthe same figure, the pin 212 striking the walls of the inclined slot 214forces the pulley d to the right to the vposition shown in Fig. 5,thereby throwing the sewing mechanism into operation, the pin 212 atthis time being at the bottom of the slot 214. It is to be underderstoodthat during this movement of the C-lever the switch 215 relieves inorder to allow the pin 212 to pass. After the sewing operation iscompleted and the C-lever drops from the position shown in dotted linesin Fig. 7 to the position shown in full lines in the same figure theswitch-cam 196 moves with the lever, and the inclined face of the slot214, together with the face of the switch 215, which is held byspring-pressure in the position shown in Fig. 10, causes the pin 212 tobe shifted to the left into the position shown in section-lines in Fig.10, which swings the pulleys 206 andV d from the position shown in Fig.5 to the position shown in Fig. 6, thereby throwing the windingmechanism into operation. When the winding operation has been finishedand the arm 326 is moved out of lcontact with the stop 328,as alreadydescribed, the Clever drops to its lowest position,(shown in Fig. 3,)carrying with it the switch-cam 196. As the C-lever and switch-cam 196drop the inclined slot 337 in the latter forces the pin 212, which inits motion presses aside the switch 215, to the right, unclutching thepulley 206 from the'pulley 223 and bringing the driving mechanism intothe neutral position.

Referring to Fig. 5, it will be seen that in some positions of the rod265, owing to the width of the plate 277, the winding mechanism maystill be kept locked even if the sew- IOO IIO

